Відео

If only! The expensive items were gifts over several years actually. The torch and zippo are cheap.

@@BenVallack They might have been gifts. Doesn't matter. Someone replicating this would need to spend £295 +postage. Maybe the expensive items were 'gifts' from companies for you to advertise. But that would be very cynical of me.

It is tricky and it is common, to some degree you do need to try and keep the dwell time on your rolls consistently low so you can avoid triggering the holds.

@@BenVallack Right. Which i've noticed is easier to do when i'm just doing typing tests where my focus is on speed. But much harder to do when my mind is else where (ie. coding). Does everyone just accept that this will happen from time to time? Or do you eventually build up enough consistency to make this a non issue?

same!

To dry out the inside the vapour needs to leave the coat. You're correct in that a temperature difference will make the moisture want to leave the membrane - but the problem is if the air is 100% RH on the cooler air outside - it will turn to liquid as it tries to leave when it hits the cooler membrane. Some might still escape and turn to condensation on the outside of course so this is a simplified argument - but as far as I can see if the temperature is equal then you won't get any transfer (no vapour pressure gradient) but if the temperature is different you will get the vapour pressure gradient but then you get condensation! The situation I'm talking about is only when it's actually raining and the outside air is at 100% RH. If the air is dryer then it can accept the leaving vapour without it condensing.

Heating your house prevents condensation on walls, it doesn't make the air any 'dryer'. It technically reduces the relative humidity due hotter air being able to hold more moisture in the air - but that same moisture is still in the air. Warmer walls means less condensation and warmer air means a higher dew point. That's why you get less mould when warming the house - if I understand it all correctly! To remove moisture from the air, those vapour molecules have to go somewhere.

​@@BenVallack It's a great argument, i have to admit. And i suppose it would largely depend on your defenition of "dryer". Since hot air with the same amount of vapour would still have a lower saturation than cold air, i.e. feel dryer and be able to absorb more additional humidity from sweat a.s.o.

@@BenVallack Yes, if the saturation is at 100% outside and if this is accompanied by a temperature differential the vapour from inside will tend to condensate outside. But since the vapour needs to cool down first this will not necessarily be immediate. Also whether the vapour has to be driven off through a membrane or just pushed out with movement and replaced with less humid air that then heats up is depending on the structure of the clothing or isolation. I tend to prefer "fluffier" and more open clothing such as a fleece for that matter since it allows for good air flow. Although windy conditions would make a combination with a less breathable and more air tight fabric necessary. In windy conditions in turn there is almost never a 100% saturation and the vapour would be dispersed before it gets to condensate. I suppose since we are looking for dry feeling rather than saturation levels the best clothing is a function of temperature gradient as well as breathability. Gor Tex is bad at both and only marketing. Ecwcs and similar systems work best for me but i think paramo fits in there somewhere.

@@BenVallack Anyway, great brain tease for this time of day. Was fun negotiating that. Thanks for this.

Yeah love the idea actually - especially for around town where the Paramo looks a bit geeky! I really want a WeatherWool coat.

Yeah I was interested in the UK Barbours - I did try a foreign one and it failed just after a year (fabric tore like paper!). So I'm done with them now. It was also like a plastic bag in terms of condensation. I like the style but the comfort just can't touch Paramo gear.

Literally just sold a Barbour as spares or repairs - it tore open like paper after just over a year.

tism

Better than blindly following whatever the biggest corporate marketing budget comes up with right?

@@BenVallack yeah, but besides spite, what really motivates you to do what you do? where does that inspiration come from? I love what you do and I just wanna know where it's coming from

@@ahhhabee​​⁠I'm kind of obsessive so I kind of find myself getting super fascinated by stuff and then going all the way down the rabbit hole! I don't think I'd call it spite in terms if rejecting big marketing stuff - it is what it is - it's just that there's usually something more interesting if you dig deeper.

Thanks! There are a LOT of copycat videos in this niche. A few weeks after I made this one someone did more or less a word for word remake!

Yeah Shakedry is very cool. I think the Paramo and Shakdry combo is a versatile pair. I sold all the old coats I had hanging around to justify the Helki so I'm left with the Paramo, Shakedry and a down jacket (the black one seen in some of the vids I did recently, it was about £20 on Vinted!). The issue with the down jacket is we often have wet and cold weather in the UK so I think I'd like to get the Paramo insulator that is designed to be worn over the top of the normal paramo and it doesn't matter if it gets wet.

Yeah kind of depends how active you are and what the ambient temp is. In cooler weather and not hugely active I'm very comfortable in the Paramo.

They have some quite light ones actually these days - the Velez is 600g. It's definitely a bit heavier though - but than means it's better at insulating in colder temps too (but of course that could be a negative in warmer temps too).

Yeah... let's hope that the processes get streamlined, economy of scale will kick in and the prices will drop.

I consider Paramo to be cheaper than Gore-tex actually - the Helki was £240. I just had a quick look on Arctreyx and saw plenty of Gore-Tex coats £400-£500!

@BenVallack my hardshell Saleva goretex jacket that saved my ass a bunch of times in rain during warmer months and wet snow mixed with rain or freezing rain in winter was 160 EUR. It kept me fairly dry too (although I do have good base layers etc.) even while skiing, hiking, or riding a bike. I was just on the Paramo website their cheapest jacket is 320 EUR. Does it deliver twice the performance?

Wait until you see the price of Gore-Tex! The Helki cost me £240 and I expect it to perform well for 20 years.

Thats for shure a real problem. Especially considering that you cannot wear it year round, because it's quite a warm jacket, the price is really steep. But I think my for my usecase it was worth it. Your mileage may vary

lol yeah fashion isn't their strong point that's for sure

I think they are more for really cold and wet situations. They keep you warm even when wet, and are designed to be worn next to skin. I don't think they claim to have any directional behaviour. Less practical as an everyday coat if you have to be naked under it!

Yeah the impact of face fabric DWR failing seems to be pretty serious. I do wonder if it's things like seems and de-lamination that goes on as well. The problem with the membrane approach is that a single failure anywhere on the jacket can have a pretty serious impact!

Helki - more details here ua-cam.com/video/jYru9LtWZCA/v-deo.htmlsi=AJ90hqut81qJWa3L

Releasing weekly again now 😀Friday at 6pm UK time.

And in Switzerland (and rest of europe) please. I only got my Paramo because we went to England for a month. They should scale up their distribution capabilities asap

I did try a Barbour. It tore just after the warranty expired so that was that! Also I would say it's as breathable as a plastic bag even when not raining!

@@BenVallack Right: I use a waxed cotton brimmed hat, but that's the extent of it. I'll try one of these coats,

Someone else commented that this comes with a DWR from the factory these days - would like to get the bottom of that.

Yeah I reckon that is a good approach for ongoing situations like that!

I once read a comment/reply posted on a forum: "The best raincoat you can buy is an umbrella"😂. To that end, my sketch book got a couple pages dedicated to toying with a coat that aired like an umbrella. Coats hang by gravity on shoulders and back unless you are a sailor on a trapeze. How bout a suitable material ( 3d airated foam?/ 3d plastic wire lattice?) around shoulders, upper back and hood to create an air gap, then maybe a battery fan to push moist air out of poncho style vents?

@@davemitas umbrellas are good for non windy conditions and to protect from sun, but no good in windy downpours.

@RC Yep. 100% agree on umbrella, hence the idea of air gap coat. Of course I'm just focusing on the moist warm air egress, the waterproofness from rain is its own issue. Rate of excersion is also key. Here's my current modus operandi: I've given up skiing in anything other than bluebird sunshine and whilst I still wear water proof pants in the morning for sitting on the potentially icy chairlift, by lunch I ski in cheap hoody and slick outer track pants so if I do fall(virtually never), snow doesn't stick, therefore stays dry. This combo doesn't stop me sweating, but within minutes I'm feeling totally dry for my next run!

I'm still on the fence about if it's actually worth it! I'm finding ISRT a bit frustrating at speed now!

It's very unlikely to completely get soaked, even after you take it out of the washing machine it's remarkably dry. There are plenty of people who get soaked in Gore-tex and the face fabrics absolutely can get soaked.